North of Nowhere
Monday, May 13, 2013
Saturday, May 4, 2013
The Rise and Fall of Monrovia's Janitor in Chief
Mary Broh stands at a dusty intersection on Tubman
Boulevard, squints and surveys scene with three sets of spectacles balanced on
her head, one pair perched over her eyes. Broh’s solid black Chevrolet Tahoe,
punctuated with the number plate Mayor 1, waits stoically on the curb as she paces back and forth.
“This is a special project, I need you here!” She snaps into
a walkie-talkie clutched in her hand.
“Who is supervising this? Hello!” She looks out to the
jumble of people milling about.
“Don’t touch the paint!” she tells someone who moves around
the small green concrete fruit and vegetable kiosk that she is launching with
the support of an international donor.
Liberians jammed in vans, beaten up yellow cabs, or cruising
past in SUVs turn their heads as they pass to see what the city’s most
controversial public official is up to. Dressed in a gold lapa jacket, with her
fine dreadlocks half up with champagne diamonte clips, and a clunky watch
strapped to her right wrist, Mary Broh does not look like your typical city
mayor; nor does she act like one.
Broh points to a small concrete zinc roofed building with an
X marking its wall.
“Someone find out who this place is for! I’ll demolish it!”
Workers in blue uniforms wielding rakes and cutlasses arrive
in the back of a pickup and raze and sweep the area at a breakneck speed.
“I’m watching you today. You are a damn lazy man!” She
points her finger at a worker.
Petty traders on a nearby street shove their goods into
lapas and pack up their makeshift store and flee; a young boy runs holding a
plastic chair above his head.
“Liberian
people are too dirty!” she exclaims.
After the formalities the mayor jumps into her black Tahoe
and speeds off into the distance trailed by a pickup full of Monrovia City
Police dressed in navy blue.
By the time I started writing this piece the acting city
mayor of Monrovia was engulfed in a scandal that seemed the stuff of a
Hollywood action movie. She had rescued her friend, the Superintendant of
Montserrado County, Grace Kpahn from the moldy concertina wired walls of
Monrovia’s South Beach prison, after Kpahn was ordered behind bars by the house of representatives for failing to implement a legislative mandate concerning misappropriation of the county development fund. The legislature called them “fugitives” and voted
for their arrest. President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf suspended the pair
indefinitely. The case was taken
to the Supreme Court. Days later hundreds of demonstrators gathered at the
Temple of Justice where Broh appeared after being charged by the Ministry of
Justice with “obstructing government operation and disorderly conduct.” Broh was slapped and kicked by protestors
outside the court who were attempting to make a “citizens arrest.” The police
came and chased them away.
When contacted for comment on the incident, Mayor Broh said
she had been advised not to engage in any interviews adding that she worked for
the president and the president was currently not in Monrovia.
This was not the first time the acting mayor made headlines
and been at loggerheads with the legislature and senate. Last year Broh drew
ire when she slapped a prominent senator’s assistant across the face during a
quarrel, which led them to a vote of no confidence and calls for her dismissal.
Broh claimed the woman had publicly insulted her to a point that was
intolerable. The house of representatives again called for her dismissal, with some lawmakers
describing her as a “rebel,” and “Ellen’s Benjamin Yeaten,” the notorious
leader of Charles Taylor’s elite presidential guard.
Broh argues the legislators do not respect her.
“I respect them, but they need to learn how to respect me,”
she told me in an interview before the incident.
The acting mayor is a divisive figure. Those in the
legislature say she is rude, arrogant and untouchable because of her close relationship
to the President, who appointed her. The Representative of District 6 of Montserrado County,
Solomon George, made waves when he was captured at a Liberian
conference in Minnesota saying that he would shit on Mary Broh. He accused her
of corruption suggested she could violence among Liberians who fought the war
many of whom live in his district West Point, an area of Liberia that is a
patchwork of rusty tin roofs, where toilets and showers are an
anomaly.
“Corruption is having a mayor that disrespects her equals
and even the poor,” he said in the tape that is now on YouTube.
Broh’s supporters view her as an eccentric rebel with a
cause. Secretary General of the Liberia Chamber of Commerce Massah R. Lansanah
says that Broh’s work has had an enormous impact on the city and made it more
attractive to international investors, among them oil companies such as Total,
Chevron, and mining giants like BHP Billiton, ArcelorMittal and China
Union.
“Mary Broh has done extremely well and the city has taken a
positive change,” she says. “No male or female would be able to do her work.
She gets into the gutters, she acts crazy but her impact is positive.”
Lansanah says while the business community and Mary Broh
have come to blows before would be a great loss to the city if Broh were
dismissed.
But civil society activists claim she is making the city
unbearable and creating further divisions between the wealthy elites and the
poor.
“She disrupts places and destroys things by instinct and
that is very dangerous,” says Abdulai Kamara, head of the Center
for Media Studies and Peace Building.
Bestman Toe, President of The Slum Dwellers Association of
Liberia says that while the city must be developed the Monrovia City
Corporation and the Ministry of Public Works, headed by Minister Kofi Woods,
has failed to offer the urban poor an alternative. Toe claims 70 percent of the
1.5 million people living in Monrovia, many of who migrated during the war, are
slum dwellers.
“The city needs beautification and infrastructure to be
built and there are no alternatives being offered by the government to the
demolitions,” says Toe.
Broh
again came into the media spotlight when houses were demolished by the MCC and
Ministry of Public Works before the UN High Level Panel meetings on the
Post-2015 Developmental Agenda came to Monrovia in early February.
The acting mayor sits behind an iPad at the end of an oval
table in her dark, wood-paneled office in the sleek marble Monrovia City
Corporation headquarters built during the rule of the elegant President William
V.S. Tubman. She is meeting with World Bank consultants who have been hired to
help rebuild the MCC that was a shell of an
institution after the civil war. Broh takes notes and periodically raises her
finger to tap away incoming calls on her two smart phones. She says she plans to improve urban
services, create more green parks and areas and to create employment for
youths.
“We have urban growth we cannot contain and we don’t want
more slums; we want to create a productive, resilient and inclusive city,” she
says, echoing the donor lingo that has become a dialect in a country where non-governmental organizations are ubiquitous. She announces her motto: “A clean, green, prosperous and
safe city.”
The consultants leave and Broh frantically prepares for a
radio show. Three young women flit around the room searching for documents and
factsheets. Broh complains about her office assistants being “sluggish” and
tells me to report on it. She walks with sharp steps down marble corridors of
city hall, her leopard print slingbacks clacking, pulls open office doors and
tells a few departments that their work has to be up to scratch because there
is a journalist in the house.
“I want a clean, green city, but the people are against me!”
she says as we shuffle down the back staircase.
Outside stand men and women from the General Services
Department sit with a half-annoyed half-puzzled look on their faces. “I shut
them down because they are inefficient,” she tells me.
An elderly male worker walks down the hill. “Where are you –
is it lunch break? Get to work or you’ll lose your job!”
I watch as her driver and her assistant Maaki anxiously try
to swat a fly out of the car before the Mayor comes back.
In the pocket of the leather seat in front of Broh’s is a
large bottle of hand sanitizer with a label that read Alcohol Pur – Killing
Bac.
We drive through the streets of Monrovia, past the Executive
Mansion that is under repair and through Johnson Road. Broh’s eyes dart as she
points to imperfections in urban landscape that rolls past: rubbish on the
street, buildings with faded paint and moldy exteriors, petty traders and
people cooking fried plantain and kala on the footpath.
“When I don’t come on the street there is a lot of nonsense
going on,” Broh says. “We should have tree-lined streets.”
As the Mayor walks up to the studio of Radio Monrovia, she
points to clothes drying on the ground of a construction site and market stands
that she says must go. People stand outside the front of the store and begin to
shuffle things off the street. Broh calls for a team to come in and clean up
the area and walks up to the studio.
She addresses the Solomon George issue and the criticism of
the demolitions.
“[T]here is a certain group of people in town here that is
against urban renewal that would like to see a permanent underclass of people
that will be beholden to them, so they can hold onto their power base, ” she
says.
On the issue of demolitions on the demolitions before the
High Level Panel she responds:
“They were selling their coal, they were bringing their
children to bathe there, they had their slop buckets all lined up, they were
brushing their teeth, bathing upfront, you mean on the main street? Can you
imagine that? Where did you ever see this?”
As Broh exits the radio station she orders her staff to open
a grubby garage filled with old cars. Marketers have hidden their tables and
stools. A heavy man piles them together and kicks them in. She orders them to
smash down a rusty roof that juts from a wall. A stout elderly woman splashes
water on the ground and haggard old man with a little brush broom made of
sticks looks confused and runs back and forth.
“All of these people here are illegal aliens,” she says
referring to the residents of the street most of whom are Fulas, Mandigoes and
Malians.
She begins to lecture a crowd that gatherers around.
“These places will be demolished,” she points to four little shops.
“If you clean your community, I’ll respect you,” she
says. “Certain people can’t live in the city. You have the right
to be in a city, but you can’t turn this place into a ghetto,” she adds in the
same breath.
The crowd stares at her with a bemused expression.
Broh was appointed acting city mayor in 2009 by President
Sirleaf, who she met in New York, when the president worked for the United
Nations Development Program in 1996. Broh campaigned for Sirleaf in 2005 and
describes her with a kind of reverence, saying that it is “by design” the president came to
power. Prior to her role as acting Mayor Broh was the President’s Special
Projects Coordinator, the Director of the Passport Division at the Ministry of
Foreign Affairs, and then Deputy Managing Director for Administration at the
National Port Authority.
Broh came of age in Liberia but lived in the United States
for 33 years. She worked for a children’s wear manufacturer for 12 years and
for the toy division at Marvel Comics, managing shipping, logistics and
distribution, where she worked long hours and shuffled on the subway between
Middle Village, Queens and Manhattan.
When Broh moves throughout the city and talks with her staff
and citizens it is as if she is commander in chief of a dysfunctional assembly
line.
In New York, she says “if you made one mistake there would
be a chain effect … everything had to be synchronized. That’s New York and you
know everything is fast and I enjoy it and that’s what I bring here.”
But for Broh Liberia’s young society, whose lives and
schooling where disrupted by the war, lacks a good work ethic.
“I’m trying to teach them good work ethics, how to take
responsibility, how to finish your work, how to meet your timelines, deadlines,
working hard and getting good results,” she told me during an interview.
A
few days later, during an interview, I ask Broh about a particular book among
those lined up neatly on her immaculate desk – called From Third World to First: The Singapore Story written by Singapore’s first prime minister, Lee Kuan Yew.
She opens the book to a photograph of Yew sweeping the streets of Singapore in
his early days as a politician. Broh says she doesn’t have political
aspirations, but the picture illustrates how public officials ought to behave,
they should get their hands dirty.
Broh is a fierce micro-manager and many times takes the work
she delegates to others into her own hands.
“In find myself playing the role of janitor in chief,” she
told me in the Tahoe on the way back from the radio station.
Broh’s public persona contrasts greatly with that of
President Sirleaf who Broh describes as reserved and calm. It was Sirleaf
herself who gave Broh her popular nickname, “The General.”
“I’m just the opposite. […] You and I are not going to fight
on the street but we’ll go gutter,” she tells me.
While Broh was once lauded for her efforts to clean the
city, public opinion has turned sharply against her in recent times.
Kaifala Losene Sayon, a 34-year-old university student who
has worked in Waterside market for the past 10 years acknowledges the impact
that Broh work has had on the city but would still like to see her go.
“Waterside used to be dirty–there was dirty water, no
garbage collection, and no one painted their shops–Mary Broh cleaned the area,”
he says. “Mary Broh has made 80 percent of central Monrovia clean.”
But Sayon says that Broh is too argumentative and combative
in her style.
“She don’t respect noboby’s rights. People close their shops
when they see her,” he says. “I will be happy if she is dismissed.”
At the conclusion of writing this article I received a press
release from the executive mansion stating that Mary Broh had turned in her
resignation. Sirleaf, in a carefully-worded nationwide address, acknowledged Broh’s contribution to Monrovia and announced that Broh would be leading a project to create a market complex for women with a playground and school in the neighboring city of Paynesville.
I remembered listening her on Radio Monrovia and thought
about how quickly Broh’s fortunes had turned since the prison break saga.
“Nobody will dislodge me. They will not make it, I am here
to stay,” she said defiantly.
While Broh’s legacy will be contested on the city streets
for months, perhaps even years to come, she is an acting city mayor the
citizens of Monrovia will never forget.
A version of this article originally appeared in the April edition of Forbes Africa.
Friday, May 3, 2013
The Line Up
We passed the Ministry of Defense late one night. Located in
the Barclay Training Center, the ministry sits on one of the most poorly-lit roads
in downtown Monrovia – Camp Johnson. The street is awash with
darkness, even on nights when football matches are played at the Antoinette
Tubman Stadium, whose neon lights chop up the city’s opaque, blue-black skyline.
Soft moonlight fell over lifeless figures on the sidewalk
laying between red and white tape and the walls of the barracks that are carved with
murals depicting military discipline, service and glory. The road's shoulder pulled us closer, and hundreds of forms became visible, making the
sidewalk appear more like a train station in an Indian metropolis whose
platforms housed poor souls each night. I stood outside for some
minutes. A few men came up to the car window and asked for some help, for some
change. We drove off.
Thousands of young men queued for a chance to be among the
Armed Forces of Liberia’s new recruits last week. They stood in the stark
sunlight and unrelenting heat, shading themselves with flimsy manila folders
filled with any certificate that provided some evidence of discipline,
achievement, worthiness. The men leaned and squatted up against the walls and sat
in the gutters of the opposite shoulder of the road, waiting for an opportunity
to submit their resume for a shot at one of the 200 to 300 positions in the
AFL, despite the fact that hundreds of others had left allegedly due to poor
wages and lack of benefits.
A young university graduate dressed in a suit squinted, walking
back and forth between a soldier and the far side of the gate, hustling, trying
to jump the queue so he wouldn’t have to wait another day.
Last week Liberia’s massive (youth) unemployment problem sat
there on the sidewalk: sweating, impatient, irritable, but forced
by circumstance to wait.
Sunday, April 28, 2013
AFL Recruitment, Barclay Training Center, Monrovia
Saturday, April 13, 2013
The Weah Effect
Last night I attended the wake of Anna Moneh Quiwah, the late mother of Liberian football legend turned politician, George Manneh Weah. The wake, held at Antoinette Tubman Stadium, located in the center of Monrovia, was attended by thousands of supporters. It reminded me of the huge political rally held by Weah’s party the Congress for Democratic Change during the heat of election campaigning in 2011, when it looked as though they might claim victory. This was just another example of the ‘Weah Effect.’ See photos below.
Friday, April 12, 2013
Rattan
The rattan cane cuts the air and the wind gasps.
“Four!” The little girl shouts as the young broad-shouldered
man, her father, who stands at some distance from her, sweeps the cane up in
the air for the next strike.
The sun had risen and these were the morning hours when the
air was chill and work could be done without one’s head steaming and body
slicking with sweat.
The girl stands on a sandy patch in her faded white
underwear. Her short hair is braided tightly in cornrows that end on the atlas
of her neck; her body is narrow and sinewy, muscle carved and molded by her
heavy-bucket-carrying, smokey-coal-pot, rusty-tin-shack life. The girl’s arm is
extended out, her hand held stiff – a bitter gesture, as though she were
politely asking her father to beat that mean cane, bony and stripped of all of
its skin, on her palm, that was yet to callous and harden.
The man rolls the cane into his hand and focuses his eyes on
her palm and traces the action – guiding the stick with his thick thumb and
first two fingers he delicately strikes down.
“Five!” She continues to count as her hand reddens and
raws.
The girl cannot remember why the rattan was brought out. Her
father had stormed into the kitchen, past the heavy aluminum cooking pots and
plastic tubs, and snatched it from its sleep in the corrugated-zinc corner.
“You rude girl!” He yelled as she ran outside and stood on
the patch of sand just outside the front door, the arena for punishment.
When he became vexed his eyes would spark with anger and his
skin would tremble like the surface of boiling water. But he soon cooled,
picked up the cane and methodically meted out his discipline that always seemed
more like a calculated revenge.
The little girl had thought about stealing the rattan stick,
burying it under the sand or throwing it to sea, but she knew that he could
choose a bigger, heavier object from the junkyard they lived in. They stayed by
the sea, squatting on a sandy block, fenced in by concrete bricks turned black
with mold. Inside these walls were cars with missing parts, loose wood planks, and
dirty sand, whose surface was littered with garbage and clothes laid out to dry
on grassy patches or the dusty bonnets and roofs.
“Twenty.” Her screams that had risen as the number of
strikes mounted, wove into a whimper.
The girl’s mother, a heavy pretty woman, sits with her back
turned. She squats down dressed in a worn lapa, her hair covered in a net, and
washes the spoons and scratched plastic plates, the heavy metal pots, preparing
them for breakfast.
Hot tears roll down the girl’s cheeks and her cries are now thin
and breathy. It is unclear the number her father is heading towards; she has
stopped counting. The girl can only hear the cane cutting the air, the water
splashing in the washing trough, the chinking spoons.
After some time she sees a figure in the distance. A
neighbour, another young man, walks toward her father to his side and gently
mouths a few words. None of them make eye contact with the other. The girl’s
father pauses. He raises the rattan stick one last time and walks back into the
zinc house with the cane clutched in his fist at his side. The little girl sits
on the ground and listens to the ocean’s steady breath and presses her palm
against the other that is red and stinging. Her mother continues washing the dishes
and her older sister comes out and starts to scale the small thin fish.
The girl looks around at the faded cars, with their hard
shells and missing parts and imagines sitting behind a steering wheel, starting
the engine and driving out of those moldy walls and into the sea.
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